Pok Pok’s name comes from the sound that the pestle makes when hitting the mortar, and Andy Ricker’s kitchen has definitely made some sweet music since opening the Brooklyn branch of his award-winning Thai eatery in April of 2012. The menu might look intimidating, but there are enough street-food staples (Ike’s famous wings, anyone?) to placate the masses. More importantly, there is enough variety to surprise even the Bangkok-traveled backpacker. Pok Pok has it all, even tap water soaked in pandan.
Khao Soi Kai is a Chiang Mai specialty with Chinese origins, but it reminds me of some of that comforting Vietnamese chicken curry available to those fortunate enough to live in Little Saigon. The curry paste-coconut milk combo is hearty without being decadent, and the mustard greens and shallots add a bite of verdancy to the dish.
Pet Pha Lo is straight-up medicinal: ideal for just about any weather. Tender duck leg falls off the bone with a faint tap of the fork, while crispy garlic, black mushrooms and mustard greens provide some substantial roughage. You’ll want to tip the bowl back for the 5 spice soy broth and the accompanying chile vinegar sauce.
Pok Pok shows off its Vietnamese-leanings once again with this gorgeous Cha Ca La Vong: catfish marinated in turmeric and sour sticky rice, fried in turmeric oil with scallions and dill, everything sitting atop rice vermicelli and laced with peanuts, mint, and plenty of cilantro. Squeeze a lime and enjoy, especially in the warmer weather–and preferably with a bottle of Lao.
The durian custard is a lot more interesting, but this mango sticky rice is still a cut above the rest of the versions found elsewhere.
You cannot go to Pok Pok and NOT order Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings. Except, of course, if you head next door first and grab a large plate for only $10 at Whiskey Soda Lounge’s happy hour.
Even better are these spare ribs, marinated in whiskey (of course), soy, honey, and ginger. Ask for extra of each dipping sauces (one is smoky, the other is sweet. Both are excellent).
Believe it or not, Pok Pok is actually known for its salads, and this Spicy Isaan flank steak salad is case in point. Loaded with fish sauce, lime and chili powder, shallots, lemongrass, more of the customary mint and cilantro, and the kicker: toasted rice powder, the Neua Naam Tok may make vegetarians second-guess their lifestyle.
Not as satisfying as the steak salad, but a lot more unique is this Laap Pet Isaan. This chopped duck salad (including duck liver and skin!) is redolent with lemongrass, dried chilies, lime juice, and fish sauce. It’s spicy-as-hell, and thankfully, served with phak sot, an assortment of pickled vegetables for munching in between (mouth-watering) bites.
Grade: Outstanding. Pok Pok is one of the best places–Thai or otherwise–to eat in all of Brooklyn. This isn’t Thai fusion by any means, yet Andy Ricker has taken Thai influences and paired them with Vietnamese and Chinese flavors to adopt his own cuisine. Moreover, since moving to larger, paired-down digs, the dining experience is a lot more comfortable.
Dish Tips: Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings (spicy), Spare Ribs, Khao Soi Kai, Pet Pha Lo, Flank steak salad, Durian sticky rice. To drink: Tamarind Whiskey Sour, Hunny, Tennessee Stud, Khing & I, Yuzu Honey Whiskey Hot Toddy
Good For: Any occasion. Pok Pok just opened for breakfast seven days a week (8 to 11:30)! It also serves lunch on the weekends, beginning at noon.
Tags: Andy Ricker, Brooklyn, Brooklyn Heights, Columbia Street, Pok Pok, Thai, Waterfront District, wings