Nino’s in Boca Raton, Florida

Nino’s of Boca Raton opened its doors on Beracasa Way in the early summer of 1983 as a small pizzeria with only eleven tables and quickly evolved into a pillar for southern Italian cooking in an area of South Florida otherwise reserved for run-of-the-mill chains or overpriced Italian American fare — a place where you could order mom-and-pop red-sauce specialties but also get a day-long braised veal osso buco or a frutti di mare risotto. Eventually, the success spawned Nino’s II, located just off North Federal Highway. Last year, the ownership split and the names, save for the roman numeral suffix, remained unchanged — but make no mistake, the original cannot be beat; Nino’s of Boca serves the best Italian food in Palm Beach County.

Nino’s excels in many dishes but if you have trouble choosing, you can’t go wrong with anything involving shrimp. The jumbo U-10s are even better lightly battered in egg and coated in garlic and white wine, a refreshing take on Francese that resonates more with lemon than butter.

Nino’s complimentary rolls always arrive fresh, moist and delicious. They come plain or dressed, like the ones above, with plenty of sautéed garlic.

The talent in the kitchen elevates simple dishes like this shrimp parmigiana into something entirely more sophisticated. Nino’s subtly sweet tomato sauce is available to-go by the quart.

You can ask for any of the daily-caught seafood over any preparation you can think of. Our favorite might be salmon over a tomato-flecked, zesty pink vodka sauce.

Another great off-the-menu preparation is this piccata, dressed in lemon, white wine, garlic and capers. Any fish can be grilled, baked, or broiled and topped, as this sea bass is, with jumbo lump crabmeat.

Each entree comes with your choice of salad or soup. If it’s available, try the red lentil or spinach tortellini, pictured above.

Broccoli Rabé arrives succulent, garlicky, and without any traces of the dish’s customary bitter undertones.

Nino’s offers majestic, succulent shanks like this Veal Osso Buco about three times a month. If you don’t happen to be around, don’t fret; diners can request this special dish a day in advance.

Nino’s impossibly-airy, moist tiramisu provides the perfect finale.

Grade: Outstanding.
Dish Tips: Anything with shrimp but particularly Parmigiana and Francese, salmon over pink vodka sauce, veal or lamb Osso Buco, Broccoli Rabé, Tiramisu.
Good For: Dinner. Nino’s has a diverse wine menu spanning more than just Italy with plenty of affordable options by the glass or bottle.

Cabana El Rey in Delray Beach, Florida

Cabana El Rey offers a fun, innovative twist on Cuban food. The restaurant, which has outposts from Manhattan to Queens (Midtown East, FiDi and the original, in Forest Hills) heralds its cuisine as “Nuevo Latino” — which usually means dumbed-down, jack-of-all-trades, fairly pedestrian versions of picadillo and lechon asado, or $26 ropa viejas. They call it “old clothes” for a reason, and Cabana manages to dress up these ones, while losing nothing in translation.

Tostones Rellenos (stuffed green plantains) is a fantastic dish to share. These ones are loaded with chicken sofrito and ropa vieja (we recommend the latter), and arrive accompanied by garlic mojo sauce and thin slices of more green plantains.

The house’s signature Coco Cabana exemplifies the strength of the kitchen’s talent for fusion and provides an excellent choice for vegetarian diners. Thai Coconut milk meets Latin habanero: generous piles of yucca, calabaza, broccoli, carrots, spinach, and Peruvian purple potatoes further enrich the curry reduction.

Ropa Vieja tastes even better when it is sitting atop a pillow of sweet, fragrant coconut rice instead of Cabana’s customary arroz amarillo. The frijoles negros at Cabana El Rey are among the best in South Florida.

Mariquitas arrive freshly sliced and accompanied with delicious garlic mojo and a generous dollop of avocado crema. Don’t be shy about asking for more garlic; this mojo is extremely addicting as a condiment on just about anything.

Expect to leave stuffed — but perhaps not satiated — after ordering the pollo asado. The half-roasted chicken arrives in true Peruvian fashion: laced with plenty of garlic, oregano, lime and extra virgin olive oil — but the aggressive rub fails to enliven the bites of dry white meat.

Opt instead for the succulent pollo al ajillo, which arrives drowning — rather joyously — in more garlic mojo, white wine, and fresh herbs.

Grade: Highly Recommended.
Dish Tips: Ropa Vieja (with coconut rice), Coco Cabana, Pollo Al Ajillo, Tostones Rellenos (with ropa vieja), Mariquitas.
Good For: Lunch. Cabana El Rey’s dinner menu shows off the kitchen’s full range and talent for executing Latin fusion — but the lunch special (entrees for $9.95-11.95 that include soup or salad, and rice and black beans) is the reason you’ll be frequenting Atlantic Avenue.

The Fat Radish in Manhattan, New York

An evening at The Fat Radish is like dining in an English country house — with the most attractive guests in Manhattan. This swanky, hip, loft-like restaurant also imparts a rustic charm from the brick walls and hand-scripted signs to the plaid-clad servers. But the seasonal American, British-inflected cuisine is the reason you’ll want to return, whether it’s for a hot date or a birthday party.

The Fat Radish’s inventive menu doesn’t end with its food. Try one of the refreshing cocktails, like this Tequila Rose laced with beets and cayenne.

The Beetroot Crumble is hearty and healthy, the ideal winter dish. But really, we recommend this excellent appetizer in any weather.

The menu changes often but vegetables and greens — like this goat feta and freekeh salad with arugula and roman artichokes — are mainstays of the kitchen.

Arctic Char arrives perfectly crispy with black trumpet mushrooms, barley and spring ramps — and with a dollop of verdant sauce Provencal.

The Fat Radish serves enormous scallops. These tender, firm mollusks are accompanied by juicy stalks of chinese broccoli and a dainty pile of sweet potato and beet mash.

Roasted and fried Brussels sprouts are wrapped with bacon and a touch of honey. Need we say more?

Grade: Outstanding. The food is filling and satisfying — yet deceptively healthy. This is Anglo-American comfort food with a locavore twist.
Dish Tips: Beetroot Crumble, Butternut Squash and Mascarpone Risotto, Scallops, Deviled Brussels Sprouts, Grilled Cheese and Pickles, Tequila Rose cocktail.
Good For: Dinner. Because of its excellent ambiance and energetic crowd, The Fat Radish is ideal for just about any occasion; a romantic date, dinner with the girls, or even drinks and snacks with a large group of friends.

Miranda in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

Miranda is a hidden gem located on the corner of Berry and North 9th in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The location, tucked away from the center of Bedford Avenue, keeps this restaurant under the radar. Not only does Miranda offer a unique and well-executed menu with Latin American and Italian influences, but it also provides one of the most romantic dining settings in the neighborhood complete with waitstaff that actually open doors for you; ideal for an intimate occasion in Brooklyn. The food is delicious, the atmosphere is both charming and cozy, and the service is flawless.

It’s always a good sign when the complimentary bread is as good as the meal that follows it. The house-baked bread selection is delicious on its own, but it tastes even better once it’s smeared with Miranda’s sundried tomato paste and olive oil.

Miranda has an excellent pasta selection. All of the pastas are made by hand, including this Medialuna — wild mushroom and ricotta-filled “half moons” with white truffle oil. The rich flavor of the truffle oil stands out brilliantly, yet this pasta remains light and delicate.

The Pappardelle with mole-braised leg of lamb ragu and parmigiano Reggiano is one of the best dishes on the menu. The ragu is complex — a medley of sweet, bitter, and savory tastes.

Pictured above is a grilled branzino with organic quinoa, roasted red peppers, gaeta olives, Sicilian capers and lemon-achiote oil. The well-seasoned fish is complimented by the fluffy quinoa, keeping this dish light yet full of flavor. It is the ideal entree if you want to indulge in some pastas beforehand.

Grade: Highly Recommended.
Dish Tips: Pappardelle, Grilled Churrasco, Medialuna, Arancini.
Best For: Romantic dinner.

The Pan American in Manhattan, New York

The Pan American serves food emblematic of its name, featuring a menu that scales the Americas, from Alabama to Argentina. The selections of shareable and snack-able portion sizes add to the range and diversity of this faux-diner, dressed in baby blue and white with snaking booths and a bar that would not be out of place in a mom-and-pop luncheonette — except this one serves cocktails as sophisticated as its food.

Even Macaroni & Cheese, that classic American comfort food, is given a refreshing twist: quinoa noodles. This gluten-free dish, made with the aforementioned flower in place of flour, is light and crunchy; the ideal intro to your meal.

Roasted Brussels sprouts are flecked with bits of chorizo and that southern Louisianan staple, tasso ham.

The duck breast is an excellent entree if you are craving more than just snacks. The tender, juicy meat is layered with more roasted Brussels, sweet and purple potatoes, and finished with a smattering of pineapple duck jus that is just sweet enough.

The Pan American’s menu changes frequently but salmon often makes an appearance and it is consistently excellent. This preparation, with kale, roasted mushrooms and mashed yucca, was no exception.

… And perhaps only surpassed by this spring version. Here, the salmon rests on top of cedar smoked potatoes, cabbage, and a spiced bourbon apricot glaze.

King Oyster Mushrooms decorated with fluffy, fragrant quinoa and spinach is a great choice for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

Tasso ham also finds its way into roasted asparagus. Small slices of roasted red pepper and caramelized onions complete the side dish.

Grade: Recommended. The strength of The Pan American is the ability to mix and match between fulfilling entrees or finger-food like the house-made empanadas and tacos, or side dishes and small plates. As if the menu couldn’t get more accommodating, there are a number of gluten-free options too.
Dish Tips: Duck, Salmon, Macaroni & Cheese, Quinoa and King Oyster Mushroom Salad.
Good For: Destination-dinner, or tapas and cocktails.

La Riviera Gastronomia in Clifton, New Jersey

Finding La Riviera Gastronomia is like watching Usain Bolt run the 100. Blink one too many times while getting off Route 46 and you’ll probably miss the small storefront tucked neatly — and with hardly any fanfare — into Piaget Avenue. But inside, it’s the cooking that resonates and La Riviera’s small kitchen handles its expansive menu with ease. You probably won’t need to look at it for very long though; the considerable list of daily specials is even better.

La Riviera’s bread is baked in the back the moment you sit down and although it may take some time until the basket arrives, the wait is worth it. We recommend you use the accompanying garlic olive oil liberally.

We would have liked to see more arugula and less crunchy iceberg in the complimentary salad — but the fresh slices of tomatoes, cucumbers and the sautéed green beans are a nice touch.

Orange roughy with clams and mussels in a light and fragrant marechiara sauce — a marriage of clams and marinara — was a recent special. Afterward, we were gripped with the uncontrollable urge to tip the plate and lick up the remnants of the sauce, soup-style.

If you feel like ordering from the menu, Manicotti is an excellent choice. This sweet, tangy sauce is not your standard marinara.

Complimentary dessert arrives in the form of a dainty scoop of vanilla ice cream splashed with red wine and topped with fresh blueberries.

The house-made tiramisu is a delicious mess. Cool and comforting all at the same time, the moist cake is almost overshadowed the moment you taste the delicate, rich mascarpone.

La Riviera Gastronomia is known for their Veal Osso Buco. This dish is massive, comprising two hulking veal shanks, bone marrow and a surprisingly light mushroom and carrot risotto, which might make you feel a little less guilty about chowing down on a baby cow.

If you have room for dessert — after dessert — we recommend the house specialty: cannoli. The nutty shell is deceptively light but doesn’t wilt under the weight of the delicious cannoli cream.

Orecchiette Garden & Sea is laden with mushrooms and shrimp in an earthy brown sauce that recalls a more fragrant version of Marsala.

Ricotta cheesecake isn’t always on the menu, but when it is — grab it. Gastronomia’s slightly sweet, alternately crusty and moist, orange-scented version is light but completely satisfying.

Grade: Outstanding. Is this the best Italian food in New Jersey? It is very likely.
Dish Tips: Veal Osso Buco, Manicotti, Tu Casa Chicken, Orecchiette Garden & Sea, any of the fish specials, particularly prepared in Livornese or Marechiara style, Cannoli, Ricotta cheesecake.
Good For: Dinner. The restaurant is BYOB and takes reservations on the weekends for parties of 6 or more, which is especially useful because of the tiny space and the well-deserved popularity.

Brunch at The Toucan & The Lion

By now you’ve probably heard about the tiny Asia-meets-the-Americas gastropub quietly situated near the corner of East 6th and First Avenue. Maybe you’ve been lucky enough to walk through the French doors, into the lively bar that segues into an even brighter, whiter dining room that would not be out of place in the latest issue of Country Living. You may have even had the opportunity to taste one of their excellent cocktails or delve into an interesting menu that’s separated into shares, sides, and mains — the last of which includes that glorious bao burger you’ve been reading so much about. But more than likely, you can’t get a seat — because, indeed, everyone is talking about The Toucan & The Lion, and yes, everyone is listening. We recommend you skip the long wait, or the sometimes unbalanced dinner — dishes arrive in no particular order — and visit instead for a wonderful brunch. Gone are the long lines and frenetic service and instead diners are met with unhurried tranquility and the rocking cadence of Bob Marley or Little Dragon on the speakers — the kind of relaxing atmosphere this garden patio space was made to facilitate.

A few of the excellent evening cocktails also make an appearance at brunch. Of course, there’s also the obligatory bloody mary — but Toucan’s gin-based version is anything but ordinary.

The Lion Stack, slathered with a tangy and spicy green salsa and topped with two fried eggs and applewood-smoked bacon, is a savory twist on pancakes. You’ll notice bits of corn in every bite of cornmeal, the last of which you’ll want to save to smother in the salsa verde.

Almost every brunch dish at T&L arrives with a well-dressed arugula salad, but if you’re looking for more greens to begin your weekend, we recommend the kale salad. Carrots, radishes, and white miso sesame vinaigrette infuse the crunchy kale with a refreshing kick. The two eggs, specked with black sesame and perfectly poached, are the real stars of this dish.

The house’s signature dish is available for brunch, if you’re hankering for a burger. The toasted bao bun does well to hold up the hefty chunk of beef, and the cashew butter and applewood-smoked bacon add a sweet contrast to the savory meat. This is not your conventional burger, so don’t expect to slather it in mustard or ketchup — you won’t want to.

You can not visit T&L for brunch and forego the Short Rib Benedict. An aromatic dry curry pervades the generous pile of succulent braised short rib and poached eggs and basil hollandaise complete the package, all of it resting on a toasted bao bun that’s been split in two: perfect for sharing.

Taro — a purple sweet potato common in Asian cuisine — breathes new life into hash browns. These ones are laced with cilantro and pink peppercorns.

Grade: Highly Recommended.
Dish Tips: Short Rib Benedict, Taro Hash, Kale Salad, Toucan Scramble, Bao Burger.
Good For: Brunch.

Zabb Elee in Manhattan, New York

Zabb Elee’s East Village branch finally gives Thai-lovers in Manhattan a reason to celebrate. Gone is the long and arduous 7-train odyssey into Woodside or Jackson Heights, or the overpriced and under-flavored papaya salads and green curries that are so common around the Theater District. But don’t come expecting Pad Thai, modest spices or Massaman curry; almost all the dishes here are of northeastern Thai origin, fish-sauced and fiery, as the message below the signpost above the entrance indicates: “Authentic Isaan Cuisine” — which essentially means “spicy as hell.”

The signature dish is the Pad Ped Moo Korb. Crispy pork belly is slathered in an earthy, spicy concoction consisting of three different types of eggplant, chili, pepper, wild ginger and garlic — the closest thing to a curry at Zabb Elee. The result is an explosion of flavor — and heat — in your mouth.

Refreshing and verdant larbs are a staple of Isaan cuisine, and also happen to be ideal for the summer. Assorted meats — like ground catfish, duck, or cubes of pork belly — are seasoned with mint, lime, cilantro, shallots, and scallions. The effect is cool and crunchy, a great way to preface your descent into eventual hyperhidrosis.

The Kra Pao Moo Korb is Pad Ped’s sweeter cousin. Oyster sauce white onions and basil leaves bathe the succulent meat into a Thai gravy. We highly recommend substituting duck in place of pork.

If you want to temper the spice levels, opt for a 1 or 2 on the 5-point scale. Or, do as we did and order the delicious Ped Paloa. The dish arrives with a massive knife, although the duck is so tender, you will need only the accompanying stew spoon. The broth here is complex and tasty, at times hinting of anise and with other spoonfuls, of holy basil. Sautéed morning glory rounds out this excellent dish.

There isn’t a more flavorful, refreshing young coconut juice in New York City, an essential elixir to remedy the spicy fare. The slabs of coconut meat that layer the libation is the cherry on top.

Grade: Highly Recommended. The menu isn’t for everyone but if you’re adventurous, you’ll be rewarded with deft execution of Isaan cuisine in a lively setting. Even the simplest of dishes — like sticky rice — are elevated at Zabb Elee into the realm of the alluring.
Dish Tips: Ped Paloa, Kra Pao Moo Korb (with duck), Pad Ped Moo Korb, any of the larbs, young coconut juice.
Good For: Dinner, although Zabb Elee offers an excellent $9 lunch special, which consists of an entree, salad, and a side.

Pylos in Manhattan, New York

Ever wonder what it feels like to be on vacation without ever leaving New York City? Pylos in the East Village transports you to a coastal Greek taverna — one that takes its name seriously. Rows of pylos — clay pots — hang from the ceiling like so many rustic chandeliers while exposed brick walls in front and clay walls in back, where an energetic bar awaits, complete the relocation. The food and the waitstaff is just as lively and comforting and the all-Greek wine list ensures your sojourn to the Hellenic republic is an authentic one.

Lavraki me Tsigarellia is one of our favorite dishes. Pistachio-crusted filet of wild stripe bass sits atop swiss chard and spinach cooked with celery, fennel, onions, tomatoes and crumbled feta — a mixture that recalls the French ratatouille.

Pylos’ pita is among the best in the city — and it’s free. So is the light and garlicky white bean puree that arrives for dipping.

Honey-braised lamb shank at Pylos just happens to be the best-tasting lamb dish we’ve ever had. Seriously. The accompanying garlic fava bean mash, decorated in sundae-fashion with a cherry-like roasted tomato, is sweet and savory. You will fight over the last bite of each.

Grilled octopus is marinated well but overladen with balsamic reduction sauce that actually tempers the flavor of the dish. Opt instead for the wonderful and decadent artichoke heart moussaka, layered with three cheeses, béchamel sauce, and caramelized onions.

Thick slices of sautéed haloumi cheese finished with greek grappa and served with grapes is like eating dessert before your dinner has even started. Trust us — you won’t spoil your appetite.

In the event that you want more variety in your choice of dip, opt for the poikilia: tzatziki, at center, a thick, tangy yogurt dip; taramosalata, at right, a robust and lemony fish roe dip; and melitzanosalata, a luscious eggplant condiment made with chargrilled eggplants and extra-virgin greek olive oil, the Greek equivalent of babaghanoush.

Grade: Highly Recommended. There is no longer any need to trek to Astoria for fantastic Greek food.
Dish Tips: Honey-braised lamb shank, pistachio-crusted wild stripe bass, haloumi cheese, artichoke moussaka.
Good For: Destination-dinner.

Maialino in Manhattan, New York

Maialino is Danny Meyer’s ode to the Roman trattoria but don’t expect casual service, wine by the decanter, or modest cooking — markers of the classic trattoria, from the French traiteur, meaning a catering business whose sole raison d’être is take-out food. Instead, diners are met with a sophisticated bar at the entrance, fitted with a row of wooden tables and a menu filled with Roman finger foods like lardo-topped bruschetta, and fried artichokes. There is a bread station in the middle of the room, along with a salumi station where everything from Emilia-Romagnan prosciutto di parma to Maialino’s own mortadella and pate di campagna are sliced and threaded. In the back, the tables of the “trattoria” are set with blue-checkered tablecloths below a sheet of white — rustic meets regal. Finally, the view of Gramercy Park is emphasized with big bay windows from which to scope out an ideal park bench to wind down after a wonderful dinner.

The careful attention to excellence is not lost on the bread basket, which is layered with rosemary focaccia, parmesan-dusted breadsticks, sesame-seeded and rustic table bread.

Carciofini Fritti is elevated with a tangy anchovy sauce.

Malfatti al Maialino — the kitchen’s signature dish — is a bed of eggy, hand-torn malfatti pasta and a smattering of fresh basil atop a cream-based suckling-pig ragù that is surprisingly light.

The Pollo alla Diavola is another Maialino staple but one that is no longer on the menu. Don’t worry though, Danny Meyer’s rendition of “devil chicken” — which was awarded “Best Roast Chicken” by New York Magazine in 2010 — is still available for diners savvy enough to request it.

A whole roasted rabbit is one of the many evening specials. This one is heavy on the rosemary and sage and the accompanying olives and creamy polenta (not pictured) is a welcome contrast to the meat-centric dish.

The pastas are so good that you may want to visit Maialino simply to share two or three while avoiding the secondis altogether. Besides the Malfatti, we highly recommend the Garganelli al Sugo di Coniglio (foreground), which is crammed with succulent rabbit ragù and olives.

Insalata Catalana, octopus with potatoes, tomatoes, and arugula, is a stand-out appetizer.

Grade: Outstanding. Maialino is ideal for a special occasion. The bill is expensive but the dining experience is priceless.
Dish Tips: Garganelli al Sugo di Coniglio, Insalata Catalana, Pollo alla Diavola, Malfatti al Maialino.
Good For: Destination-dinner, or an evening of pasta-tasting.